Matiu/Somes Island
The days were getting closer to going home. We planned an outing to Matiu/Somes Island hoping for certain species like the Little Penguin. Matiu/Somes is about 20 to 30 odd minutes away from the Wellington harbor. You can take one of their daily boats for 15 New Zealand Dollars. This island, when it was known as Matiu, was used as a refuge for the Māori. The island was also used as a quarantine for people entering the country. And like other islands across the world, used as internment camps for residents from enemy territories and abroad during World Wars 1 and 2. Today it's a protected historical and conservation area.
Since 1981, the government has been working to restore the island. It's also rodent free now making it a sanctuary for New Zealand's precious birds.
In the past, these waters had been full of whales until humans arrived, almost eradicating these amazing creatures. Today, they are coming back and the locals are loving all the sightings. And for the birder part, I was hoping to find a Spotted Shag. Now this is a true shag. Take a look at the top of the head. It's shaggy. They weren't common around the harbor or any place I walked along the ocean near Wellington. We actually had to go out further to this island and see them. This was the only place I saw them but I'm sure a few roam close to the towns around the bay. This is quite a magnificent and beautiful shag. When they fly, it's almost like a heron. Such large and regal birds.
Sometimes the boat ride was quite cold. What a lovely sensation.....to be cold.
Red-crowned Parakeet
I hadn't expected to see so many Red-crowned Parakeets on the island. It was a huge surprise. We had seen them in Zealandia and Kapiti Island, but they were always so fast. Here on this island, they were everywhere and perched out in the open for beautiful observations.
Miracles happen everywhere. A report came to the ranger on the island that a pod of Orcas were seen near our location. Heidi is linked to the naturalist community working with Te Papa so we had a head's up. We quickly went down to the dock and just like that, fins appeared out of the water a few feet away from us. They were that close! I've seen Orca before but never like this. I could've touched them. Meanwhile on the mainland, everyone was hoping for a scope view. We just happened to be in the right place at the right time. I think this was a lifer for Heidi.
We watched this lucky boater get taken out by the Orcas:) I'm only kidding but with the recent reports, you have to wonder, Have these Orcas learned how to bite boats?
The ranger said to me, "You may not have seen Little Penguins, but you got Orcas!" My funny side thought, "They're probably hunting my Little Penguins."
Any day with a whale, orca or dolphin is a good day. They are incredible creatures.
The other mammal Orcas could be hunting? The plentiful New Zealand Fur Seals that were around the island. How was the walk you ask? Moderate to easy, but it was slippery in some parts. So be careful around the edges if there is rain.
They are still working on the vegetation around the island. The visitor center at top has a small museum and a Little Penguin burrow under the bathroom. They actually climb up high on the rocks and can be found at the highest point of the island. So they don't just burrow along the shore. THAT was shocking for me. Another curious piece is that they still have sheep at the very top of the island! One came to visit us during our lunch break.
There are picnic tables everywhere. And the views are breathtaking.
This island is FULL of birds, just like Kapiti. And it's interesting to see which species dominates each island space. For a more relaxing and enjoyable time, Matiu/Somes is an excellent choice. Kapiti Island was a race against time with our studies and upward hike. That one I'd rate moderate to slightly difficult. It's just the time factor that made Kapiti a bit more rushed. However, the Kōkako is only found on Kapiti if you're just in the Wellington area. I'd say the secret to great birding in New Zealand is visiting all the rodent free islands. Then going on pelagics.
When you have a nice overlook, I recommend REALLY looking out at the ocean for albatross(mollymocks), shearwaters, ocean mammals, prions, etc. While doing so, this Sacred Kingfisher below perched right before us with this stunning view. Aren't they gorgeous?
All along the top, you'll see old bunkers from the old wars. And sheep.
On this trek, I was hoping for Fluttering Shearwaters on the mini pelagic to the island. I got them in great numbers so keep your eyes open for fast darting birds just above the water that like to sharply bank at any point. I helped Heidi get a lifer here. So many people are unaware of the water birds that blend in with the waters. We also searched for penguins but no luck.
If you can't move around the boat on the ride over and back, stand at those overlooks on the island. The pic below was taken during a gull-a-poolooza. Experience told me to look for the shearwaters after the gulls were done. And sure enough, a curious shearwater entered after the gulls were done destroying a fish that surfaced too close to the water.
On the left, you can see how much smaller this Fluttering Shearwater is next to the larger Kelp Gull.
I am so happy here. I could burst into tears. I am a very lucky lucky soul to have so many wonderful friends around the world. I was so sad in my 20's when we all left each other to live our different lives. Only now in my 50's, do I realize how lucky I am that we are all still connected to one another.
I found my lighthouse. I love lighthouses. There is something soothing about their presence. As a child growing up on Lake Michigan, I remember the lighthouses making their beautiful horn sounds during fog events. Often I'd fall asleep to their hauntingly soft and rhythmic calls.
It was almost comical. New Zealand Fantails will bombard you everywhere on this island. They are VERY numerous here and will fly right in front of your face and watch your every move. A little boy crossed into an open grass area and had 8 fantails swirling about him! He didn't know what to do. We laughed. Pretty cool stuff. I suggest that the fantail be New Zealand's official bird guide for birders.
Birds, mammals and.....plants. There were so many gorgeous plants on the island. I thought to myself that hummingbirds from North America might actually love some of these plants here:) It was just a thought! They don't need anymore non-native birds. That post is coming later.
In the shadows, keep your eyes open for berry eating Red-crowned Parakeets, or kākāriki. I like the latter name better and used it when looking for them. Red-crowned Parakeet is so bland. This is a stunning bird that should go by its' native name. Some people are asking right now, what is the "a" with the cap on top the vowel do? When saying the name, you have to stretch out that "a" sound slightly longer. Kaaa-kaaa-ree-key. Cute name, right?
Happiness is travel. Happiness is friendship. Happiness is love. Happiness is nature. Happiness is discovery. I wish the world would catch on to this. I think a lot of people understand it, but sadly, so many humans are killing each other. Hatred. Greed. Religion. So many are on drugs and/or are homeless around the world. Some dying from starvation. In New Zealand, I didn't feel any of that stuff and I felt good again. Something I haven't felt in a long time. Wherever I travel, I find the beauty each country offers. And there is so much of it. But in New Zealand, there was a quiet. I know that local people get that "trapped on an island" feeling there, and having lived on an island myself, I understand their point of view. Personally, I felt at home in Wellington. I love Tlaxcala. I love the rocky ocean fingers of Maine. I love Antigua, Guatemala. The question is.......what happens after retirement? So many amazing places with wonderful people and nature together? It's so hard to choose.
But in this one moment with my friend Heidi, I am happy. Truly happy. There are so many paths in front of us. I have never been afraid to take them. They are there. But there are SO many to choose from! I can imagine myself living here. It's a place full of kind people who are forward thinking. There's no argument that global warming is happening. They are working to protect their piece of heaven. I could get on board that plan so easily. There's just a few more posts to go from New Zealand. Then we'll take a break and look at what's happening in Arizona right now. I'll follow that one up with a post about British birds. And most likely end the year with the stats. I'm currently working on the 2024 birding schedule. It looks like I'll need to brush up on my portuguese again. Thank you for following along on the adventures and we'll see you next time.
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