Zealandia
One of the most exciting birds for me was this South Island takahē
I remember the excitement I felt watching the first Jurassic Park movie. Could it be possible to have a fenced sanctuary where one could see dinosaurs within an enclosed zone? A place where these creatures could move around freely? Years later, I discovered that New Zealand has sanctuaries like those seen in Jurassic Park on several islands. Welcome to Zealandia! Queue Jurassic Park music.
Zealandia is one of the few ecosanctuaries where the public, and specifically birders, can reconnect with the native species that for most birds, can only be seen in this sanctuary free of rodents. Before man, there were no mammals on these islands except for a few species of bats and fur seals. Birds were free to be and many were flightless. Then humans arrived bringing rodents with them.
Today, a lot of research happens with New Zealand's most precious endemic forest birds. As more and more smaller islands around the North and South islands are eliminating the non-native rodent threats, endemic birds are making a huge comeback thanks to the works and efforts of Kiwis(New Zealanders) around the country. Wellington has seen a return of native birds, like the Kākā, flying around the city once again. Zealandia is around 556 acres within the containment zone. Another area outside the security fence extends much further. This security zone allows native birds to nest and fly freely without the fear of being killed by rats, stoats or other non-native critters.
As you walk into the Zealandia entrance, you'll notice a cafe and gift shop. Right past it all is a security gate where you have to check your backpacks to make sure you don't have any mice inside. It's also a place to clean your shoes before you enter Zealandia grounds. The first thing you'll see is this historical control tower to the lower dam which controlled the water in the reservoir. It's important you stop here and walk out. It was here I added my first Zealandia lifer, the New Zealand Scaup. As with most scaup species, they like the deeper waters.
While not uncommon around the Wellington area, I had my best views in Zealandia. As I entered further into the sanctuary, I began to feel like I was in a different world. *Jurassic park theme playing in my head over and over* Your entrance fee gets you two consecutive days to explore. I easily spent 4 days(we also did a night trek) just enjoying the wildlife and people. I met so many nice people on the trails. We'd sit at a bench and chat. Locals are so proud of the work that is happening. A hundred years ago, none of these birds were seen around Wellington. Today, within and outside the sanctuary, because of the sanctuary, the endemics are coming to people's yards again.
I had this moment above marveling at what we are capable of as humans, if we just all worked together to improve this planet. You can feel it in Wellington. And it made me want to do better in my Sonoran desert.
The next bird on our walk that we could hear was the North Island Saddleback. It acted very much like a thrasher back home. I'd see them on the ground kicking up leaves and then up in the trees eating berries. These birds need a sanctuary to survive. Their populations had been wiped out for a time. Today, their numbers are slowly increasing due to sanctuary islands and sanctuary zones around the country. In fact, people living around the sanctuary on top of the hills can see these birds in their backyards! They are also quite noisy. There are 2 species of saddleback. On my next trip, I'll be visiting the South Island and hoping to add this closely related cousin to my lifelist. This bird is very cool.
Loving the vocalizations of all birds, Heidi and I stopped at an area where we could listen to all the endemic birds with the press of the button. And unsurprisingly, some real birds came to check us out.
A tricky bird to photograph is the Whitehead. There were many of them and they bounced around the forests with other birds like the elusive Stitchbird. I lucked out on day 2 when I focused my efforts on the Whiteheads. I do not like the name of this bird because it sounds like a pimple or zit. I like its' native name better, the Pōpokotea. These are beautiful birds that forage together much like Bushtits do in the United States. I should note that I only saw this species at Zealandia during my stay in Wellington.
New Zealand Kākā
In New Zealand, you'll see birds with and without the bird bling(bands around the legs). Generally speaking, birders like to get pictures of birds in nature without the bands. Here in Arizona, birders don't like to get hummingbirds on bird feeders. My point here is that there are many birds that have not been banded. If you want THAT picture, be patient. They are out there.
There are 2 Kākā feeders on the trails before you head up into the hills. But honestly, there are many of these parrots around town. They have made a great comeback. It's one of 3 parrot species, and several parakeet species, found in New Zealand.
The Kākā is most common and seen almost everywhere around Wellington and country. The others, the Kea and Kākāpō, are a different story. Both are endangered, one critically. However, the news is promising for both. The Kākāpō population is increasing. It is slow and done with much human help. Unfortunately, this is a bird species that is not accessible for most birders unless a person volunteers to help for a time period on the island with the researchers.
The Kea is very accessible and can be seen eating from your plate at a local restaurant at or around Arthur's Pass on the South Island or pulling rubber from your car. I did get a chance to study them up close at the Wellington Zoo. They are quite loud.
Ahhh. Getting lost. In a good way! With a backpack full of water and snacks on a cloudy cool misty day in July is perfection. We passed several key areas for birds and I kept adding to that lifelist. We crossed this sky bridge into the hills for Bellbird, Stitchbird, Rifleman and other endemics.
Tui
As we did, we both spotted the very common Tūī(Too-ee). First off, these birds were never common before locals and researchers started eradicating vermin. Today, their beautiful song and unusual appearances grace all of Wellington and surrounding areas. These birds have really benefited from the conservation efforts. I saw them at my friend's house. One local told me that ten years ago it was almost impossible to see one in the city. This is a great bird and turned out to be one of my favorites.
Sadly, one of New Zealand's extinct bird species, the Huia, seen in the museum
While it's exciting to see the progress made on the endemics in New Zealand, we cannot forget how many endemics went extinct because of the Polynesian and European settlements. Zealandia also has a museum where you can revisit those extinct birds, like the largest eagle known on the planet, the Haast's Eagle. It was so powerful that it could allegedly snatch children or the elderly from the ground. Other birds, like the large Moa, were hunted to extinction by man. You can revisit this all at the museum. There is a movie that everyone should watch before entering the sanctuary. You may cry. Never will you look at European rats the same way again. I know I know. They are just doing what we do....trying to survive. But to see the damage man and vermin alike have done is heartbreaking. Most birds were flightless and didn't have a fighting chance against the foreigners. This is the case for most Polynesian islands. Hawaii is in the worst situation of them all. The extinction event of their honeycreepers is happening before our very eyes. I did cry at one of the hotspots there. Global warming is happening and it is real. It's the one thing that New Zealand recognizes as real...even their conservative party.
With heavy and happy thoughts, I left Zealandia for a walk through Wellington. It's so easy to do there. I took their free electric shuttle to the historical tram stop and rode down the hill until I hit the last stop. I got out and headed to the ocean for a break.
I came back the next day because you get 2 days when you purchase a pass. Just show the receipt and it's free to enter.
I was more relaxed and could take my time focusing on my studies of other birds. There were a few targets that I needed in the hills. I still needed Stitchbird, the Rifleman and Bellbirds.
The parrots were a lot of fun.
They have nectar feeding stations up for the New Zealand Bellbirds or Korimako(say that in a scary King Kong voice). They enter what looks like a bird cage and sip from the nectar.
I found the New Zealand Bellbirds were fairly common in places that were set as sanctuary areas. On the South Island, they are widespread and easy to find. Zealandia is still working to understand what's happening with their bellbird population. Males will stay within the sanctuary but the females are going outside of the safety zone which is hindering the population from increasing. Stitchbirds and Rifleman are also puzzling researchers. So not all is figured out yet. Population sizes around Wellington are lower. After all of the work, I never saw a Rifleman. It's the only dip I had. But I have more chances in the future.
The upper dam is lovely. We got to look out over the sanctuary and see the birds on top of the canopy.
I loved watching people's expressions by all the incredible discoveries. The sounds from the top are beautiful.
Once I walked over the upper dam and got into the muddy wet forest. I had several special encounters with the very personal North Island Robin. They move right up to you hoping you'll stir up some bugs with your shoe.
These were some the birds I so wanted to see up close and personal after my months of study. And I had that opportunity thanks to places like Zealandia. 10 years ago, this would have been a lot more difficult for birders.
And of course, you can't come to New Zealand without doing a night tour! The glow worms were so beautiful.
the family does the night tour in search of real kiwis!
With a "torch" or flashlight, we were lead by a guide to search for the Little Spotted Kiwi and Morepork(their only remaining owl; the Laughing Owl is now extinct). Both were heard in great numbers. They begin to vocalize right after sunset. The kiwi's will forage in the forest and can be noisy at times. Listen for sniffing and scratching. The Morepork makes a beautiful 2 note "MORE PORK!" call.
For anyone who loves nature, Zealandia is a must visit place. Here is the link. I added 9 new lifers to my list from my time at Zealandia. Three of those species I only saw in Zealandia.
Zealandia, also known as Te Riu-a-Māui or Tasmantis, Earth's 8th continent, is now mostly submerged under the ocean. New Zealand, or Aotearoa, is known as the land of the long white cloud. In the next posts we explore several sanctuary islands off the coast of Wellington and Kapiti, we'll visit an estuary, and much much more. Stay tuned!
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