Haystack Rock and the Doppelgänger Rock

The ocean is such a lovely place to bird.  The drive from Portland to the coast is a little over an hour's drive.  It's some of the most beautiful scenery you'll see in the US.  I drove from the hustle and bustle of the Portland downtown through the pacific rainforest and then eventually along the forested and rocky coast to hopefully observe a very special bird. 



Cannon Beach is a cute little coastal town made for tourists and the rich.  But it's also home to the Tufted Puffin during their breeding season. 


In the town's square but not really quite a Tufted Puffin:)
As early as April, these birds can be seen heading to Haystack Rock to begin nesting in their burrows. I enjoy puffins very much.  In fact, during the month of May, I went with my friend Kathie in Maine to closely observe the Atlantic Puffins.  By the end of May, both puffin species are starting to burrow. Or are in their burrows.




There are 4 species in the US that can be observed along our coasts, the Atlantic, Tufted, Horned Puffins and the Rhinoceros Auklet(despite its name and differing appearance remains one of the four Puffin species in existence today. In fact, they've been called Unicorn Puffins in the past) I have yet to see Horned Puffins but that will be a special trek up to Alaska one of these years. 



My first observations with Atlantic Puffins were from a distance.  The second time, we went to Machias Seal Island in Maine to really observe them up close. So my Tufted Puffin sightings were very similar to the Atlantic for this first round. 





I've studied Tufted Puffins for quite a few years now.  I've read about them, listened to podcasts and watched videos.  The easiest spot to see Tufted Puffins in the US is at Cannon Beach.  Not only is there signage but you'll also find volunteers who will help you get their eyes on them.  The thing is that the views are usually quite distant unless they fly over you....which happened a few times.  




To me, the Tufted Puffins look rather sinister but I also think they are very cool looking birds.  This pic below was taken from Wikipedia taken by Alan D Wilson.  I hope to get these views like I did with the Atlantic Puffin.  However, the observations. I did get were pretty good. 



I also need to mention that besides the Tufted Puffins, I saw many nesting Common Murres, Pelagic Cormorants, Pigeon Guillemots, Black Oystercatchers and gulls. 



During the nesting season, the rocks connecting to Haystack Rock and Haystack Rock itself are off limits to exploring and curious beachgoers.  Tufted Puffins are in decline and protected.  As of 2022, the Tufted Puffin populations in the US are listed as a species of concern. Source  Can we reverse this trend?  Atlantic Puffins also suffered from decline for many years.  Thankfully to much conservation work, they are breeding once again off of Maine's coasts.  Work still needs to be done and climate change is still a threat to this species and their food supply.  Puffins also mistake plastic pollutants for food in the ocean and end up starving to death.




It's hard not to notice some of the other beautiful birds in the area.  It's not every day that this Arizonan gets to view Pelagic Cormorants. 



By understanding the Atlantic Puffin flight pattern well, I was able to locate the distant Tufted Puffins over the ocean horizon.  I saw them several times before they hid inside their burrows. 




Looking at the pic below, you'll see a pair in their burrows.  They prefer the grassy slope of Haystack Rock.  After listening to several podcasts, researchers mentioned that they had burrows in this area. Had I arrived later, I would have missed out on the show.  There were at least 3 pairs that I could see on the rock. 


I focused along the air space next to Haystack Rock and saw many birds flying in and out of the rock.  Sometimes I'd mistake the many Common Murres for a Tufted Puffin.  But after training my eyes better, I was able to pick out the puffins.  



When I'm there, I have to watch the waves.  Every now and again, a rogue wave comes in and everyone gets a little wet. 


So while you're out at the rock, keep your eyes out for these beautiful birds!



Look at the number of Common Murres on this rock!  Amazing!



Here's an up close shot I took from Machias Seal Island.  

 

Also keep your eyes out for Harlequin Ducks that hang out around Haystack Rock. 



Here's an embarrassing story.  On my first day in Portland, I went out to what I thought was "Haystack Rock".  Apparently on ebird, there are TWO Haystack Rock locations and I clicked on the wrong one.  It actually is called Chief Kiawanda Rock(aka. the "other" Haystack Rock!) And it's NOT in Cannon Beach BUT rather near Pacific City! I worked my butt off to find the Puffins there.  I saw a rock in the water and said...."oooh there it is!"  Then I walked out to the beach and realized that this "Haystack Rock" was out further in the water! Maybe it was high tide? I knew the Tufted Puffins would be challenging but NOT that challenging!  Holy cow! I've sent a report to ebird to hopefully correct the name of the hotspot.  After speaking to Khanh about the experience, we both realized I went to the wrong spot!  I could have kicked myself as I had never done that before.  Then we started laughing and I named the rock Doppelganger Rock.  So be careful! A few Tufted Puffins do nest there but you'll definitely need a scope to see them. 




Back in Cannon Beach, keep your eyes out for Black Oystercatchers that nest around the rocks. 




And for your entertainment, here is Doppelganger Rock(aka Chief Kiawanda Rock). It used to be called Haystack Rock before it was renamed.  Be aware that the REAL Haystack Rock is somewhat connected to the beach at Cannon Beach.  So don't get lost in the scenery like I did.  It's a beautiful area!






The Tufted Puffin was a lifer for me and it was a fun trek.  So if you're in Oregon this summer, check out Cannon Beach and the Tufted Puffins, et al. You can sip your coffee and watch birds. Until next time.....



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